/team-receives-tragic-news-from-home-moro-and-urubko-halts-progress/

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Nanga Parbat
Winter Expedition
the mountain
the expedition
Expedition
team
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the team's
progress
from basecamp
to Summit

 
CAMP 4
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CAMP 2
over 5000 mt
 
DEPOSIT
THE MOUNTAIN

Nanga Parbat is the ninth highest mountain on Earth, the second highest mountain in Pakistan with a summit elevation of 8,125 meters.
Nanga Parbat means "Naked Mountain" and it's also called the "Killer Mountain", Nanga Parbat was known to be one of the deadliest of the eight-thousand meter mountains; It is a dramatic peak that rises far above its surrounding terrain, and no one has ever reached the summit in Winter.

NANGA PARBAT CLIMBING HISTORY:
  • - 1895 First attempt (A. Mummery)
  • - 1953 Nanga Parbat first climb along Rakiot Face, Herman Buhl in a solo summit push.
  • - 1962 Second climb on Diamir Face (Kinshofer)
  • - 1970 Reinhold and Gùnter Messner climbed the Rupal face and descent the Diamir face
  • - 1978 Solo climb of a new route along the Diamir face (Reinhold Messner)
  • - 2005 New route in alpine style Rupal face (S.House e V. Anderson)
SEE THE MAP

THE EXPEDITION

After their first winter ascents of Gasherbrum II, The North Face® Expedition Team is getting ready for the next project: the first winter ascent of Nanga Parbat 8125 meters.
This Expedition will feature only Simone Moro and Denis Urubko without Cory Richards; the third of the trio on the last GII winter ascent.

The aim of the expedition is to realize the first winter ascent of Nagna Parbat 8125 meters, a mountain also known with the name of "killer mountain" due to the difficulties and the tragedies happened during the attempts to conquer the summit between 1930 and 1953. Also after that years a lot of fatalities involved alpinists of different nationalities on Nanga Parbat.
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As it happens

Team Receives Tragic News from Home, Moro and Urubko Halts Progress

The team eventually made it to camp 1 at 5555mt today and had a radio contact with Base camp to give some updates on their progress so far.

They pitched a camp at 5555mt, putting their sleeping bags out to dry. The team said ” it was really difficult to get there, but now we can see the route we intend to take”

On their way up they found some old gear which they believed could be Messner’s

The plan was to continue to go higher today but unfortunately they have just received a shocking news about Mario Merelli a great Alpinist and close friend from Italy who died this morning. The guys are devastated and will now return to Basecamp to clear their heads because right now, they are not in the right state of mind to keep moving on.

Simone said: “We were so happy to have finally found the route, with our nose stuck in the glacier, going forward sometimes with snowshoes, sometimes with crampons and then going back to snowshoes. We even received confirmation from Messner that we are in the spot where he pitched his camp in the year 2000.
but then we received this sad and shocking news from Matteo at Base camp. Mario had done so much in the mountains, even on the over-8000mt peaks, and he fell on the mountain he knew best, right above his home.”

“There are no words to explain how we feel. I knew him well, and Denis too had been in an expedition with him. Lately we would meet him often because we all lived in the same city, Bergamo.

Now our thoughts are in another place, our heads are not clear enough to continue our way up. Our original program was possibly to pass 6000mt. We’ll see in a few days. Now it’s too late to go back to Base Camp so we’ll sleep here and go back tomorrow, and we’ll stay there a couple of days.

Our thoughts are all for Mario. We feel really close to his family.”

Story: Simone Moro
Photos: Matteo Zanga
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Discussion

5 Responses to “Team Receives Tragic News from Home, Moro and Urubko Halts Progress”

  1. Davvero una brutta notizia ragazzi. Mi dispiace per il vostro amico…

    Posted by Giovanni bianco | January 18, 2012, 7:39 pm
  2. so sorry for the tragic news Simone and Denis … give yourselves time … and listen to your hearts and your mountain. we are with you in all of the moments ….

    Posted by Lizzy Hawker | January 18, 2012, 8:07 pm
  3. So sorry to hear the tragic news of Mario, my thoughts are with you guys. It brings home the dangers and risks that you guys take, puts you on touch with the fragility of life. Take care up there and good luck, live life to the full guys.

    Posted by Tony | January 19, 2012, 1:47 pm
  4. Нужно идти дальше… время не ждет.

    Posted by Chess | January 21, 2012, 5:20 pm
  5. t is necessary to go further… time and tide wait for no man.

    Posted by Chess | January 21, 2012, 5:22 pm

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