9-12 OCTOBER 2014
KALYMNOS – GREECE

This year there are the legendary climbers, widely recognized as the early pioneers of modern sports climbing, who joined a series of other athletes for this full-on 4 day meeting.

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THE COMPETITIONS


OPEN Marathon

Competition for teams of 2, in twenty-two climbing sectors.
Categories: male, female and mixed. Team scoring.
The routes in this competition have a minimum difficulty level of 3c to a maximum of 7a according to the French grading system.
The competition field includes pitches on sections of the island that have already been bolted.
Prize consists of The North Face® and Partners products.

BIG Marathon

Competition for teams of 2, in twenty-two climbing sectors.
Categories: male, female and mixed. Team scoring.
The routes in this competition have a minimum difficulty level of 7a+ to a maximum of 8a according to the French grading system.
The competition field includes pitches on sections of the island that have already been bolted.
Prize consists of The North Face® and Partners products.

THE CLIMBING SECTORS
THE PROGRAM

WEDNESDAY OCT 08TH

11AM – 10PM OPEN Marathon, BIG Marathon and DWS Sunday Session official registration @ Festival Base Camp at Elena Village in Masouri

THURSDAY OCT 09TH

11AM – 10PM OPEN Marathon, BIG Marathon and DWS Sunday Session official registration 7.30PM The North Face® Kalymnos Climbing Festival official opening @ Festival Base Camp at Elena Village in Masouri

FRIDAY OCT 10TH

8AM – 1PM OPEN Marathon, BIG Marathon and DWS Sunday Session official registration @ Festival Base Camp at Elena Village in Masouri 9AM – 6PM OPEN Marathon and BIG Marathon – Day 1 9.30 PM Legends Story Teller’s night. Exploration and adventure stories. @ Festival Base Camp at Elena Village in Masouri

SATURDAY OCT 11TH

9AM – 5PM Legends Invitational – An epic gathering of rock climbing heroes!
9AM – 6PM OPEN Marathon and BIG Marathon Day 2
8.30PM – 10.30PM Greek dinner
10.30 PM Prize giving ceremony@ Festival Base Camp at Elena Village in Masouri
11.30 PM Seaside party with Live DJ set @ Masouri Beach

SUNDAY OCT 12TH

11AM – 4PM Deep Water Solo Session with The North Face® athletes

FINAL RESULTS


THE LEGENDS


MAURIZIO ZANOLLA MANOLO

MAURIZIO ZANOLLA “MANOLO”

Maurizio Zanolla, better known as Manolo, was born in Feltre (Italy) on 16 February 1958. He’s an alpine guide and a climbing maestro. His name is inextricably linked to the birth and evolution of free climbing in Italy…

MEET HIM
JEAN BAPTISTE TRIBOUT

JEAN BAPTISTE TRIBOUT

Jean Baptiste Tribout was born in Paris on 14 February 1961. Jibé started climbing when he was just 7 on the rocks of the fantastic Forest of Fontainebleau. Just a few years later he discovered the mountains…

MEET HIM
PATXI AROCENA

PATXI AROCENA

Patxi Arocena was born in Tolosa on 19 May 1965. He started climbing when he was young, exploring the Alps and climbing in the mountains. His curiosity tickled by tales of a new style of climb…

MEET HIM
GERHARD HÖRAGHER

GERHARD HÖRAGHER

Gerhard was born in Innsbruck in 1968. He started climbing when he was only 14 on his neighbourhood rocks in the Zillertal valley. Gerhard was immersed in rural Alpine life and fell in love with climbing…

MEET HIM

YUJI HIRAYAMA

YUJI HIRAYAMA

Yuji began climbing when he was 15 years old, and he soon became one of the best climbers in Japan. When he was 17, Yuji moved to California’s Yosemite National Park to brush up on his crack climbing, and then to France…

MEET HIM
BEN MOON

BEN MOON

He started climbing with his family when he was 7 years old. In a few years climbing became an obsession and when he was just 18 his first ascent of “Statement of Youth” (8a) established Ben as a rising star in the UK climbing scene…

MEET HIM
BOONE SPEED

BOONE SPEED

Boone Speed started climbing in 1985, at the beginning stages of the Sport Climbing movement. Early in his prolific career, Boone and his partners discovered the incredibly steep limestone of American Fork Canyon in Utah…

MEET HIM

MAURIZIO ZANOLLA “MANOLO”


Maurizio Zanolla, better known as Manolo, was born in Feltre (Italy) on 16 February 1958. He’s an alpine guide and a climbing maestro.

 

His name is inextricably linked to the birth and evolution of free climbing in Italy.

He started his vertical explorations at the age of 17 by repeating the classic routes up the Eastern Alps (Dolomites) and Western Alps. In 1977 he opened up the “Cassin” route up the Torre Trieste (6c). In the following years he repeated and opened up other very demanding bolted routes: “Carlesso” on Torre Trieste (7a/b on-sight), “Biasin” on Sass Maor 7b/c in 1979, “I piazaroi” to the top of Madonna alle Pale di S.Martino (7b) in 1978.

At the end of the 1970s he visited the cliffs above the Verdon River and discovered modern routes with permanent bolts. Back on the rock faces at home he started to push back the frontiers and opened up several single-pitch routes that became milestones in Italian climbing: 1979 “Lucertola schizofrenica” (6c); in 1981 he redefined very difficult climbs by opening up the “Il mattino dei Maghi” route that was initially graded 7c+ and is today recognised as Europe’s first 8a; this was followed in 1983 by “Dracurella” on Arco (8a); in 1984 by “Uomini e topi” and “Enola gay” (8a+); in 1985 by “Terminator (8a/b); in 1986 by “Ultimo Movimento“, the first Italian 8b; in 1987 by “Maratoneta” Paklenica (8b+); in 1987 by “Malvazia” Dvigrad (8c); in 1991 by “The Dream” in Val Noana (8c).

For more than two decades Manolo kept on opening up difficult single-pitch routes up local rock walls but in addition to that in 2006 he climbed his first 9a, the “Bain de Sang” at Saint Loup (CH). This was followed in 2006 by “Bimbaluna“, again in Saint Loup (9a+), in 2009 by “Eternit” at Baule (9a) and in 2012 by “Roby Present” in Val Noana (9a).

For over thirty years of vertical travel Manolo never gave up exploring and rising to the challenge of balancing precariously on the splendid rocks of the Dolomites. But in particular we should mention the first repeat ascent in 1984 of the “Via attraverso il Pesce” route up south wall of the Marmolada (the first attempt was also memorable because Manolo was forced to make an epic descent on a single cliff). Also worthy of note are the first on-sight in 1987 on the “Bonvecchio” route on Pale di San Martino (8a), and in 1987 the incredible ascent that was almost an on-sight up the mythical “The Nose” in the El Capitan Yosemite Valley (USA); in 1993 the first repeat climb of “Nureyev” on Sass Maor(8a); in 2004 opening up the “Cani morti” route on Pale di San Martino (8b+max/ 8a grade of difficulty) and repeating the climb; 2006 the “Solo per vecchi Guerrieri” up the Vette Feltrine (8c max/7c grade of difficulty).

Manolo’s is a long vertical odyssey where he finds rare moments of maximum purity in climbing and has made different solo free-climbing ascents. To mention a couple: “Masala dosa” 8a at S.Silvestro in 1992 and the attempt up to the fourth pitch “Nureyev” on Sass Maor (8a) in 1996.

JEAN BAPTISTE TRIBOUT


Jean Baptiste Tribout was born in Paris on 14 February 1961.

 

Jibé started climbing when he was just 7 on the rocks of the fantastic Forest of Fontainebleau. Just a few years later he and his mates in the French Alpine Club discovered the mountains and he went on different climbs in the Alps.

Jibé was soon drawn to the challenge of difficulties of the new free climbing on rock. In 1982 he climbed his first 8a “Fritz the Cat” at Saussois (FRA) and in 1985 on the vertical walls above the Verdon he opened up the 8b “Les braves gens ne courent pas les rues” route. There’s been no stopping Jibé since 1986: he climbs and leaves his mark on French rocks as he does in America. These are his most important climbs:

To bolt or not to be” Smith Rock, 1986, first ascent and first American 8b+; “Les Specialistes“, Verdon, 1986, first ascent (8b+); “Le spectre du surmutant” Boux 1987, first ascent (8b+); “La rage de Vivre” Boux 1987,second ascent (8b+); “White wedding“, Smith Rock 1988, first ascent (8b+); “Revanche” Saussois, 1988, first ascent (8b+); “Masse Critique” Cimai,1989, first ascent (8b+); “Maginot Line” Volx ,1990, (8c); “Huevos Rancheros“, Gache, 1991, first ascent (8c); “Macumba club“, Orgon, 1992, first ascent (8c); “Just do It“, Smith Rock, 1992, first ascent (8c+); “Superplafond” Volx, 1994, first ascent (8c+); “La Connexion” Orgon, 1994, first ascent (8c+).

Between 1987 and 1994 Jibé climbed competitively, first as a climber and then as an international climbing route setter. He always won good rankings in the lead category of the World Cup Lead and he finished the 1992 and 1994 seasons a clear third in the overall ranking.

After a few years’ break, in 2008 Jibé went back to high grade difficulties and was soon climbing up 8a routes on-sight and opened two 8c routes: “Guerre d’usure” at Claret (FRA) and “Intime Etrangere” at Tournoux (FRA).

 

PATXI AROCENA


Patxi Arocena was born in Tolosa on 19 May 1965. He started climbing when he was young, exploring the Alps and climbing in the mountains.

 

His curiosity tickled by tales of a new style of climb, he made his way to the Verdon Gorge in 1984. Fired by enthusiasm, Patxi and his companions returned to Spain determined to start a new vertical era.

New climbing challenges could now be tackled. Very early, in 1987, he opened up “La Brocha y el Vampiro” at Onate, Spain’s first grade 8. A lot of new routes and first grade 8 routes followed until in 1990 his first ascent of “El Sikario” was Spain’s first grade 8c. The on-sight climbs continued and after various grade 8a ascents in 1991 he pulled off the first 8a+ on-sight ascent of “Si yo fuera Catalan y viviera en Cataluna” at Extauri.

Patxi has always stood out by his ability to try out new training methods that he has put to good use in over 15 years of Climbing World Cup (Lead) competitions where he has always been ranked very highly and in his much appreciated profession of national and international climbing route setter specialising in lead and boulder climbing.

 

GERHARD HÖRAGHER


Gerhard was born in Innsbruck in 1968.

 

He started climbing when he was only 14 on his neighbourhood rocks in the Zillertal valley.

Gerhard was immersed in rural Alpine life and fell in love with climbing. He started with the long poorly protected routes and moved on to short hauls over the rocks in the valley bottom: what counted was climbing.

The young Gerhard’s climbing concentrated above all on the Austrian rocks but there were also visits outside the Zillertal valley: in 1986 he repeated the “Hyaena” (8b+) ascent in Finale Ligure and in 1987 he amazed North-Eastern Italy with the first ascent of “Sogni di Gloria” at Erto, an imposing 8b+/c on a 45° wall.

In the Zillertal Gerhard and his friends bolted and opened up dozens of splendid routes and difficult bouldering sections that still today are real tests for valley climbers. The most memorable are the impressive 8a+ trad. Ganja route and the historic Graceland 8b.

For some years Gerhard has been creating and making artificial climbing holds marketed under the SQUADRA brand.

 

YUJI HIRAYAMA


Yuji began climbing when he was 15 years old, and he soon became one of the best climbers in Japan.

 

When he was 17, Yuji moved to California’s Yosemite National Park to brush up on his crack climbing, and then to France, where he climbed some of the hardest free-climbing routes in the world and excelled in competition. Still a regular visitor to Yosemite, his accomplishments there include a rapid, two-day free ascent of the Nose route on El Capitan.

CAREER HIGHLIGHTS

2008: The Nose, Yosemite; Set a speed climbing record: 2:37:05

2004: White Zombie, Spain (8c); On-sight

2003: El Nino, Yosemite; Attempted on-sight. Free climbed all pitches.

2000: World Cup Series Champion

1998: World Cup Series Champion

1997: Salathe, Yosemite; Attempted on-sight. Free climbed all pitches in two days.

 

BEN MOON


Ben Moon was born in Sheffield (UK) on 13 June 1966.

 

He started climbing with his family when he was 7 years old. In a few years climbing became an obsession and when he was just 18 his first ascent of “Statement of Youth” (8a) established Ben as a rising star in the UK climbing scene.

Beginning on the rocks near his home home in the Peak District and then on to the rest of Europe, Ben spent much of his time travelling to seek new vertical challenges.

At Buoux, France’s proudest cliff, he set about repeating the testpieces then in 1989 he redpointed Agincourt, a ground-breaking ascent giving France its first 8c, the tongue-in-cheek name hinting at beating the French at their own game. When photographs of Agincourt appeared in On The Edge climbing magazine aier the ascent it had traditionalists stroking their beards in awe. Moon is captured, feet swinging free, his whole body hanging off the tiny tips of three fingers. The iconic caption was a quote from Moon: “When 6c just isn’t that hard any more and 6b is approaching a rest.” These (British technical) grades were then the top level in traditional climbing, showing just how far Moon had taken the sport.

Ben specialises in short explosive routes and raised the level of UK difficulty in 1990 first with a repeat of “Liquid Amber” the first 8c in the UK, then the first ascent of “Hubble” on Raven Tor (UK), an extremely powerful route and the first 8c+ in the world. Even today, 24 years later, Hubble has only been repeated 5 times!!
During his years of full-time climbing Ben also became an experienced competitor. In 1986 he took part in SportRoccia and for three years from 1991 to 1993 he competed in The Climbing World Cup (Lead).

His experience on short routes with sections requiring intense power instilled a passion for bouldering in him in the early years of the new millennium. Some of his key ascents included: 2002 “Cypher” at Slipstones (UK) first ascent (8b); 2005 “High Fidelity” at Caley (UK), second ascent (8b); 2005 “The Ace” at Stanage Plantation (UK), third ascent (8b), and in 2006 “Voyager sit start” at Burbage (UK), first ascent (8b+).

In the last decade Ben has lent his name to the “Moon climbing” brand that he created that specialises in sports clothing and bouldering accessories.

 

BOONE SPEED


Boone Speed started climbing in 1985, at the beginning stages of the Sport Climbing movement. Early in his prolific career, Boone and his partners discovered the incredibly steep limestone of American Fork Canyon in Utah. Boone turned his focus on the area’s relentlessly powerful and crimpy “Hell Cave” and never looked back. Over the next decade Boone went on develop Hell, which became known worldwide as a proving ground for the world’s strongest climbers.

 

During the same period, Boone discovered and developed the Virgin River Gorge and other cliffs around southwest Utah and bouldering areas including Joes Valley and Ibex, just to name a few. Boone became the first American to climb 5.14b with his ascent of “Super Tweak” in Logan Canyon, Utah in 1994. Three years later, Boone climbed “Ice Cream (I Scream) In Hell” becoming one of the first handful of climbers in the world to ascend the then elusive grade.

Besides establishing many climbing and bouldering areas, including thousands of first ascents, some of Boone’s other significant contributions to climbing include designing the first commercial bouldering pad “The Spot” for Black Diamond Equipment in 1993, and designing climbing shoes for Scarpa and Fila.

Today Boone Speed is an award-winning professional photographer and cinematographer dedicated to capturing authentic moments. In addition to having his photography represented in the Smithsonian’s permanent collection, Boone’s work has been commissioned by esteemed brands such as ESPN, The North Face, Nike, Adidas, The Wall Street Journal and more, to help them tell their stories.

 

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