Nilgiri South Face – Hansjörg Auer

Nilgiri South Face – Hansjörg Auer

Nilgiri South, South Face From October 22 to October 26 Hansjörg Auer, Alex Blümel and Gerry Fiegl successfully made the first ascent of the South Face of Nilgiri South (6839m). This is certainly one of the finest ascents of the season in the Himalayas and a long...
Matterhorn Obsession

Matterhorn Obsession

For the 150th anniversary of the first ascent of the Matterhorn, mountaineer and alpinist, Hervé Barmasse, decided to show his appreciation, dedication and passion for this iconic peak with a short film that illustrates that which makes the mountain so unique and his...
David Göttler: Freunde von Freunden Interview

David Göttler: Freunde von Freunden Interview

David Göttler: Mountaineer & Guide, Home & Surroundings, Chamonix-Mont-Blanc Sitting in the warm sun on the patio of a small lodge, with Mont Blanc almost in arm’s reach, we discussed his past expeditions, future plans and the complete fulfillment that comes with his job. His is a life of discipline, drive and hard-earned talent. This is the extraordinary life of David Göttler, mountaineer. What was your first real expedition? My first expedition was Patagonia in 1999 or 2000, so I was pretty young.

Nanga in Winter: Why We Had To End The Expedition at 7,200 m (23,622 ft)

Nanga in Winter: Why We Had To End The Expedition at 7,200 m (23,622 ft)

Our expedition is over. The Nanga summit remains only a desire for now. David realized it would be too dangerous on Saturday morning, March 1, at 7,200 m (23,622 ft). He had reached the top of the Mazeno Ridge with the Polish climber Tomas Mackiewicz. They had the opportunity to look at the other side of the mountain, the Diamir face, only to discover that the route up to the summit is still very long and grueling from there. The top section of the face was covered with blue ice.

Nanga in Winter: The First Summit Attempt, Why We Turned Back

Nanga in Winter: The First Summit Attempt, Why We Turned Back

The first summit attempt has failed, so we’re back at base camp again, and we have to start over from scratch. There definitely will be more attempts in the next days. On such huge mountains, a vain attempt is pretty normal because it happens in winter. The exceptions would be good weather, everything going smoothly, and the summit being easily accessible. Nanga Parbat has been attempted for 25 years in winter, and nobody has reached the summit so far. A few days ago, Simone, David…

Nanga In Winter: 3 Reasons why we have to wait patiently at basecamp

Nanga In Winter: 3 Reasons why we have to wait patiently at basecamp

On January 31 we spent a quiet day at base camp. The weather was snowy and foggy, and the Nanga peak was wrapped in cloud. Simone and David took a rest after the hard work of the previous days: they had climbed quickly to 7,000 m (22,965 ft) and set up C3 with a small...
Nanga in Winter: The Expedition so far in the words of Simone Moro

Nanga in Winter: The Expedition so far in the words of Simone Moro

“The route conditions are peculiar: there’s only ice in the higher stretch, and not much snow on the mixed route. The Polish guys also said that it’s way different from last year; it’s much more difficult. Much more technical skill and dedication are required, and we...
Nanga In Winter: Teaming up To Reach Camp 2 at 6000m

Nanga In Winter: Teaming up To Reach Camp 2 at 6000m

After the first days spent among acclimatization climbs, laughter at base camp and silent glacier hikes, after all the preparation and organization to get here, after stepping in each other’s tracks while alternating leads toward C2, Simone and David have...