Who’s climbing style amongst the athletes that are here do you admire the most? Male and Female
Joanna Ernst from the comp. When she was 15 she was so fluent and so light. Just as if every hold was a jug, when she was open-handing it really looked effortless. Really,really smooth. So yeah, JoannaErnst.
For the men, he’s not here, but he was last year… Yuji Hirayama. He’s got this very Asian cat-like style. He’s very dynamic and at the same time very light on his holdsand very precise on his foot placements. It’s like a cross between adancer, a cat and karate kid.
It’s the first day of The North Face Kalymnos Climbing Festival and the competition has been blessed with superb conditions without a cloud in the sky and a pleasant autumn sun.Running for the second year in a row, the contest has had a cracking start with Alexander Megos leading the classification having sent two routes [...] ...more
On the morning of July 18 the winds calmed down and the weather cleared up. It seemed our last chance. At 6am, as the sun rose we set off. The following mixed part was hard, our toes and fingers were freezing and the long traverse out to the ridge on glared ice was very exhausting. [...] ...more
We came to La Réunion with a fairly simple objective; to open a new multi-pitch route, ground-up, using as few bolts as possible. On first arriving at La Chapelle we knew we had a potential 7 days to attempt the wall, but all were quietly thinking we would be finished a lot sooner than that. [..] The wall looked short and featured, with a clean series of cracks and corners running from bottom to top - the only problem... perhaps it would be too easy to present a worthy challenge? ...more
We organized amongst ourselves and then made the walk into La Chapelle – a beautiful, narrow, and tall canyon. It was always to be the primary objective of our trip, and we’ve managed to establish a difficult 7 pitch route from the ground up. 6 of the pitches have been climbed free, but the most difficult – pitch 5 – which we think is 8c or 8c+, has not been completed. ...more
We camp out in the middle of La Réunion island, where the nearest town is called Cilaos and our camp site is about 1.30h of hiking from Cilaos. After 15m of climbing there is nothing to protect me to go next 8m and it's looked very hard. I wasn't sure that there will be the place to protect or not... [...] I knew how hard was the climbing... plus he placed the blot on hooks. I was surprised how he can manage to put the bolt... ...more