GII Winter Expedition: From Summit Back to Base Camp

GII Winter Expedition: From Summit Back to Base Camp

Today, while descending from Camp1 to Base Camp, Simone Denis and Cory got caught in an avalanche. I think the morale of the day is, as Simone said, that it truly is not over as long as you are not in BC. Cory Richards about the summit day “Well… … that day we just got up and we just started moving and you hit that 8,000m ceiling and every step above there gets harder and harder and harder. And being on top, I still don’t believe it happened. You just need time to process those things, but I know that it did, so it feels good. The weather on summit day was actually quite mild in terms of going up. When we got to the summit at 11.38 it started to close out and the clouds started to come in . And then as we went down and we traversed across the plateau underneath the summit pyramid, that is when the weather really got bad. That is when it got to be full on winter at 8,000m in the Karakorum. It just became almost unmanageable. It was one of those days when everything is ok, but you always know you are right on the very edge of smoething going completely sideways.“ Cory Richards about the Avalanche of February 4, on the way down from Camp 1 to Base Camp, underneath Gasherbrum V “yeah… it was a big day, I am likely to celebrate February 4 as my birthday today. We were walking underneath Gasherbrum V and a massive massive avalanche hit us. All three of us, and knoked us...
GII Winter Expedition: SUMMIT REACHED. HISTORY IS MADE

GII Winter Expedition: SUMMIT REACHED. HISTORY IS MADE

Today February 2nd, 2011 at 11:28 PKT (Pakistan Standard Time) It is the first over 8,000m to be climbed in Karakorum in the winter Season. The team is now descending from the top towards Camp 3. In a Sat Phone call from the top Simone said “It has been very hard, but the three of us feel well“. This is Simone’s third 8,000m winter ascent: Shisha Pangma (2005), Makalu (2009), Gasherbrum II (2011) This is Denis’ second 8.000m winter ascent: Makalu (2009), Gasherbrum II (2011) Cory Richards is the first American to summit an 8,000 metres peak in winter. The team will take approximately 2 days to climb back down to base camp. Pictures from the summit will be available as soon as they’ll be back at Base...
GII Winter Expedition: Simone, Denis & Cory summit push | Camp 2 reached

GII Winter Expedition: Simone, Denis & Cory summit push | Camp 2 reached

The North Face athletes Simone Moro, Denis Urubko and Cory Richards have left Base Camp Sunday morning, January 30, for the first summit attempt. After a night at Camp 1 they kept going and they have now reached Camp 2, 6,500m, where they previously placed their tents during acclimatization. Tomorrow they will move to 7,000-7,200m, setting up Camp 3, where they will spend the last night, before the final push. The weather is expected to clear up, but the winds will be strong. The alpinists are hoping that the wind will blow away some of the snow that has fallen in the past days, making their ascent less tough. “Before reaching the ridge I expect to have to break trail, but in knee-deep snow, not waist-deep like in the past days” says Simone Moro “this would allow us to be quite fast”. “We might aim for the summit directly from Camp 2, it’s about 12-13 hours… but it’s not like summer. The days are very short, the sun goes down early. I believe the best tactic is to move higher, set up Camp 3 and from there, at midnight, leave for the summit.” “Then it’s going to take us two days to climb back down to Base Camp, and the weather is not expected to be as...
GII Winter Expedition: After another three days of push on the mountain (-46°C)

GII Winter Expedition: After another three days of push on the mountain (-46°C)

We just returned to Base Camp after 3 nights and 4 days of hard work on the mountain. Last night was the coldest -46 ° C. We have had great difficulty in reaching the technical field 2. C1 we spent two days, having to set up a bivouac at 6250. Unbelievable, for 250 yards a day! But the difficulties and dangers were high and we had to proceed carefully. Now all the acclimatization phase is over and the next round will be groped for the summit. We will need strength and acceptable weather. After 16 days of arrival at base camp, to be already thinking about the summit does not seem true. But there are still 1500 meters to climb over to Camp 2. Do not scare me because in the winter Makalu, it was 1700 and with Denis we went to the top. We’ll see, we have time to even think of failure and lay on the first try and adjust the shot to the second. Now I go to bed because I’m tired. Tomorrow I will send you a Hello video. Simone &...

GII Dispatch #3 – The cold welcome from GII

GII welcome to The North Face athletes includes extreme cold, avalanches and a choice of crevasses. Follow Simone Moro, Denis Urubko and Cory Richards as they approach the slopes of GII on thenorthfacejournal.com Produced by STORY.teller COLLECTIVE Filmed and edited by Cory Richards Music by Green Button Music –...
GII Winter Expedition – Three days and two nights on the mountain

GII Winter Expedition – Three days and two nights on the mountain

Theese three days and two nights on the mountain that just ended was a very important stage and a demanding one. Denis and I (Cory was at base camp due to a mild illness). We were going to reach 6500 meters in area two, but we never expected to swim eight hours in the snow and struggling to earn only 250 meters in altitude. We have not given up though; we dug a trench for almost two kilometers just to gain the upper portion of the plateau. Really now we’re probably out of the “guano” and I hope that next time we can really go up to Camp 2 and then higher. On the mountain and icy conditions seem dry and cleaner thanks to the wind. Of course, all the snow is swept from the crests. The biggest danger was once again … all the crevasses are covered and therefore unpredictable. We are repeatedly blessed and we ended up in the rope that bound us to each other. Once, we were on an ice surface the size of a tennis court and it collapsed to 50cm…. I thank God The first night the temperature was -40 ° C, the second at -43 ° C after 8 hours of fighting with the snow was hard. Fully clothed and in my sleeping bag and the cold was felt equally … Today Denis and I we went walking in the footsteps yesterday and it was all easier. The cracks were visible (well we had open cracks or holes in the summit of the crevasses to locate them). Making it simple and safe...