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Nanga Parbat
Winter Expedition
the mountain
the expedition
Expedition
team
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DEPOSIT
THE MOUNTAIN

Nanga Parbat is the ninth highest mountain on Earth, the second highest mountain in Pakistan with a summit elevation of 8,125 meters.
Nanga Parbat means "Naked Mountain" and it's also called the "Killer Mountain", Nanga Parbat was known to be one of the deadliest of the eight-thousand meter mountains; It is a dramatic peak that rises far above its surrounding terrain, and no one has ever reached the summit in Winter.

NANGA PARBAT CLIMBING HISTORY:
  • - 1895 First attempt (A. Mummery)
  • - 1953 Nanga Parbat first climb along Rakiot Face, Herman Buhl in a solo summit push.
  • - 1962 Second climb on Diamir Face (Kinshofer)
  • - 1970 Reinhold and Gùnter Messner climbed the Rupal face and descent the Diamir face
  • - 1978 Solo climb of a new route along the Diamir face (Reinhold Messner)
  • - 2005 New route in alpine style Rupal face (S.House e V. Anderson)
SEE THE MAP

THE EXPEDITION

After their first winter ascents of Gasherbrum II, The North Face® Expedition Team is getting ready for the next project: the first winter ascent of Nanga Parbat 8125 meters.
This Expedition will feature only Simone Moro and Denis Urubko without Cory Richards; the third of the trio on the last GII winter ascent.

The aim of the expedition is to realize the first winter ascent of Nagna Parbat 8125 meters, a mountain also known with the name of "killer mountain" due to the difficulties and the tragedies happened during the attempts to conquer the summit between 1930 and 1953. Also after that years a lot of fatalities involved alpinists of different nationalities on Nanga Parbat.
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As it happens

Anxiety Increases at Basecamp Over Prolonged Bad Weather Conditions

Nanga Parbat Base Camp, -16°C, still snowing

The weather is still very bad, the boys are still at basecamp and the prolonged bad weather condition is creating a lot of anxiety to make a move or not despite the conditions. This mornings’ update from Simone at basecamp explains some of this further in his words:

“If Karl Gabl doesn’t put on the green light, it’s useless to try. I learned this lesson a long time ago but this time it refreshed my memory. Denis after all the bad news yesterday wanted to try a flash attempt, leaving this morning and summiting in 3 days regardless of the bad weather forecast for the days after. I called Gabl and asked him what he thought. The answer was clear: it would not have been a good idea and the forecast was terrible. I told Denis Gabl’s answer, saying I trusted him and that we were not going anywhere. He was awake at 5,30 this morning, because he wanted to wake me up to leave. I heard his tent’s zipper open, then he muttered a few curses. The zipper closed and he went back to his sleeping bag.

There’s nothing we can do about it: Gabl is the Messner of Meteorology.

Apparently the weather forecast is bad for at least a week, maybe more… and time goes by..
Oh well.. we came a long way to do this, and now we better stick to it. We have 47 days left before going back to Nepal. One day my body is gonna want some payback.”

Story: Simone Moro/ Denis Urubko
Photos: Matteo Zanga
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Discussion

One Response to “Anxiety Increases at Basecamp Over Prolonged Bad Weather Conditions”

  1. You guys showed great patience there. Best wishes for your future ascents.

    Posted by Amer from Pakistan | February 15, 2012, 8:31 pm

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